[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]
Is it wrong to compare something favorably to cheesy puffs? That’s the position I’m in trying to describe the awesomeness of the white cheddar chicharrones ($5) at Trenchermen. It’s my opinion that some restaurants serve chicharrones for the shock value alone, but it’s obvious that the Sheerin brothers adore the dish beyond all reason, because they take the time to transform it into a wondrously airy snack, with none of the chewy or tough parts that plague most renditions. In fact, they’re more delicate than any puff I’ve ever encountered, with only a slight trace of pork coming through.
As for the cheese part of the equation, the white cheddar is distinct but lightly applied, so that you get the shot of salt and funk, but without all that excess gunk left on your fingers. Basically, this is bar food par excellence, and I can’t imagine ever stepping foot in the Trenchermen without an order of these. I adore them so much, it almost makes me want tobreak out into song, but I’ll save you all the embarrassment.