[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]
Few dismissals make me sadder than someone saying, “I just don’t like coconut.”
I shouldn’t complain—it means I get all the Almond Joy out of any variety candy pack and don’t have to share macaroons. But I do love baking with coconut, and it’s a sad thing when you get a rejection akin to this:
And therein lies the problem, I think: “I don’t mind the taste,” people say, “but I hate the consistency.”
Which is where coconut ice cream comes in—all creamy coconut flavor, no chewy coconut threads.
You can boost that coconut flavor by toasting the shreds first. But be careful: if you’re using sweetened coconut (easier to find than unsweetened), it’ll burn quickly. After the first minute of toasting, keep an eye on the pan. You just want a light golden color on the edges and the beginnings of a strong coconut aroma.
If you’re looking to brighten the flavor of coconut, there’s no better addition than lime. It gives the ice cream the tropical lift it needs to accompany anything from fresh pineapple to dark rum cake. Should you be seeking ways to brighten up a dreary late-winter evening, look no further.