[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]
My last visit to the restaurant in the Talbott Hotel didn’t exactly go well. That’s when the temporary “pop-up” PT occupied the space. But since then, the place spruced up, jettisoned the dark wood for pristine white subway tiles, and signed up chef Ryan Poli (Tavernita, Barcito) to completely remake the menu. Little Market American Brasserie is the result, and it features a menu made of straightforward classics executed with impressive precision.
On paper, the All-Day Grilled Cheese ($12.50) seems to have an identity crisis. Isn’t a grilled cheese a solitary ode to cheese? So why does it also include a fried egg, bacon, avocado, and Sriracha sauce? Purists should look away, but there’s no denying that each component is properly cared for. It’s less a mess of desperate and fatty ingredients and more of a guilty pleasure.
Little Market Brasserie